Punchline

I have arrived at the bar in serious critic mode, armed with a physical notebook and pen and an unwavering focus to really savour my culinary pickings. 

Alas, upon talking to Jeet Rana, one of the masterminds behind Bandra’s newest cocktail bar, Punchline, all my ambitious plans fly right out the window. Four drinks and way too many plates of food later, my ‘review’ has devolved into drunkenly misspelt grreaats and FABBs in my Notes app.  My thoughts on one drink are simply summed up as so sitrng but yum i’m gonna blackout before promptly proceeding to do shots with Jeet for a cheering bar and spilling premium tequila on the counters. 

After 15 years in the industry, the duo behind Delhi’s favourite Barbet & Pals, Jeet Rana and Chirag Pal have been sitting on this concept for a while. The crux of Punchline is punch, the world’s oldest cocktail: one that actually originated in Mumbai, Madras and Calcutta from paanch in Hindi for the five elements in the drink. Chef Amninder Sandhu is the genius behind the food, which doesn’t shy away from being audaciously smokey, charry, meaty and savoury (even desserts). 

The drinks 

Welcome drink: Do not be lulled into false indifference by the name and price (free) of this drink. When it comes to first impressions, this spiced rum punch with five-spice, apricot and apple punches (ha.) well above its weight, pairing gorgeously with a blue cheese and cream cheese stuffed olive. 

T-Root Bomb: A spirited, vodka cocktail starring bergamot and akarkara that’s refreshing, yet anchored in dimensionality. The garnish is intentional: a caramelised caper that quite literally acts like a cherry on top. Everything makes sense once you take a bite and a sip. 

Swine n’ Brine: One of the five punches whose namesake perfectly captures the essence of this drink. A savoury cocktail vaguely inspired by a Long Island Iced Tea. Five types of spirits, in-house tamari, kalamata olives, chettinad spice, and the kicker: Goan style pork chorizo. It’s porky, salty, smoky, and incisive, my favourite of the night. Pairs divinely with Two Good Lamb Ribs. 

FSH Martini: What’s a fish with no eye? Fsh. As far as bad dad jokes go, the FSH martini is, by far, the strongest I’ve encountered. A strong lemon gin martini undercut by smoked and fermented tuna (Katsuobushi) and caper brine may deter even the most experimental of drinkers, but it’s actually decent on the palate (or maybe, I’m too far gone to notice) allowing undertones of apricot to shine through.  

Pickle Pack: A shot of pickle juice from a variety of five and a spirit of your choice (tequila in my case). As someone who recently vowed to never do a shot again (owing to the questionable behaviour that follows after), it goes down with the ease of a retired sports pro making a legendary comeback, pickleback in my case.  

The food 

Crispy Proms: The crispiest, puffiest deep fried prawns with a malvani crumble and spiced garlic aioli. While the prawns itself make for a great vessel, the aioli and crumble could do with more zing and spice.  

Made Wings Great Again: The showstopper bar snack. Every good bar needs great wings and these tandoor grilled ones are crusted in Manipuri black rice that adds heat, texture and taste. While the orange crema is more forgettable, the wings more than make up for it with its intense charry grill.

Surf N’ Turf: As someone usually averse to mixing my land and sea delicacies, I was won over by the octopus and buff skewers. Familiar tandoori kebab flavours with bold textures. The meats are cooked perfectly, with the necessary amount of chew to enhance the smokiness. 

Two Good Lamb Ribs: Good is a gross understatement. It’s easily the best thing on the menu, Jeet concurs. The lamb ribs have bite, seared to perfection and drowning in an indulgent Old Monk butter. The Buff Marrow gremolata adds a luxe melt-in your mouth textural contrast. You dig into this one with your hands, licking the plate clean. 

Charcoal Dunked Steak: Paper thin slices of steak in a bodied reduction, chicken liver pate, and caramelised onion foam. The steak melts in your mouth with the rich silky sauce. I didn't, however, care too much for the foam and craved more of the much needed refreshing respite the steamed asparagus offered. 

Iberico Ice Cream: The unquestionable answer to the agonising question: what to get for dessert? Vanilla ice cream served with mango/melon bits, crispy Iberico ham, and Bhavnagari chilli. The spicy balances the sweet. Umami pork and tangy mango is a winning combination.

The verdict

All in all, Punchline masters the art of flavour pairings with some seriously innovative and unique ingredients. For instance, the in-house Japanese ferments and cured meats are anything but gimmicky and half-baked. It’s a testament to decades of expertise and passion by a team that doesn’t take itself too seriously.