Abode Bombay

Mumbai will throw everything it has at you – the noise, the heat, the rickshaws, the impossible beauty of it all, and after a day in this city, what you want is somewhere that feels like it belongs here. Not a glass tower in BKC with a rooftop bar and a sushi menu. This. A 1910 colonial building above the hawkers and the hustle of Colaba, where the ceilings are high, but the linen is organic.

Abode Bombay began life as the private residence of David Sassoon, one of old Bombay's commercial heavyweights, before spending a few decades as a guesthouse and eventually landing in the hands of people with considerably better taste. Since 2013, under the keen eye of Abedin Sham, it has operated as a 25-room boutique hotel, a number deliberately kept small enough to give it that old ‘know thy neighbour’ charm. Each room has been individually designed with antique Indian furniture, locally sourced upholstery and art-déco tiled floors that you'll spend an embarrassing amount of time photographing. The Superior and Suite categories add double-height windows and freestanding bathtubs to the equation. Even the Basic rooms, with their original teak floors and shared loos, have more personality than most four-stars in the city.

The Abode Room café deserves its own paragraph. It's run in partnership with Subko, whose specialty coffee is sourced from farms across Asia and has developed something of a devoted following in Mumbai. Portable pour-overs, cold brews, and a breakfast that runs until midday is complemented with freshly baked bread, homemade yogurt, seasonal fruits and two hot Indian dishes. The smell of masala chai and South Indian coffee hits you the moment you walk in, which is a sign of simple luxuries. 

The wellness offering here is more considered than you'd expect. There's a dedicated spa room with handpicked independent therapists, many of them visually impaired individuals trained specifically for the role, which is one of the most thoughtful things you'll read about a hotel. Yoga mats and Swiss balls are on hand, classes available on request, and for the genuinely committed, a local bootcamp runs at the Cooperage Football Stadium five mornings a week at ₹400 a session. There are also group runs through the city for those who want to earn their affogato.

Abode takes its local credentials seriously. They source materials from Indian artisans, run a car service that employs underprivileged women from Mumbai, and stock a small shop with handwoven scarves, tribal jewellery and original Indian artwork that is, somewhat dangerously, available to buy.

Time Out tip: Ask for a room with a Colaba view.

Getting there: Taxis from the airport cost around ₹800 and take up to 90 minutes depending on traffic. Use only the prepaid counters in Arrivals.