Chef Rijul Gulati
Image courtesy of @rijul.gulati on Instagram
Image courtesy of @rijul.gulati on Instagram

Chef Rijul Gulati's guide to Punjabi comfort food in Mumbai

The best of Delhi that Mumbai can offer, according to a certified Dilli boy who's now heading Indian Accent Mumbai

Tanvi Chakravarty
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Chef Rijul Gulati’s hospitality knows no bounds. He is fun. Full of josh. And of course, a massive foodie. In other words, he’s the quintessential Delhi Boy. So you might understand my slightly prejudiced (I’m a Mumbaikar) surprise when I notice there is zero arrogance in the man when he chats to me about the changing currents in the culinary world and what Indian Accent Mumbai has in store. Despite finding towering success at a relatively young age, Rijul is still fuelled purely by passion and expertise. The picture of humility. There is absolutely zero room for Delhi tropes here. 

But, at the risk of invoking a cliché, you can take the boy out of Delhi, but you can’t take Delhi out of the boy. After nearly a decade at Indian Accent in the capital, Rijul moved to Mumbai in 2023 to helm the restaurant’s brand new NMACC outpost. Mumbai can’t ever replace home, but it’s come with its own sense of community. Celebrity chefs Prateek Sadhu (NAAR) and Varun Totlani (Masque) are ‘dear brothers’, he says, while he remains tight with Manish Mehrotra, founding chef of Indian Accent, as well as Himanshu Saini of Michelin-starred Trèsind Studio fame. 

But where does he go when the Delhi foodie in him starts to itch? ‘Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport,’ he says with a grin. Jokes apart, in the three years he’s been in Mumbai – a city not always known for getting North Indian food right – he’s found a handful of places that come close. Here’s his guide to Punjabi comfort classics in Mumbai. 

Where Rijul eats when he's missing home

Punjab Sweet House | Gajar ka Halwa

Yeah, you know he’s serious about this guide if he starts with dessert. And if Mumbaikars want to indulge in true decadence, they’ll find it inside Punjab Sweet House in Bandra – specifically the gajar ka halwa. It’s loud and proud, it’s traditional, it doesn’t hold back on the ghee, and it’s hands down the best in the city, says Rijul. I can almost hear the salivary glands kicking into action. His and mine. 

Time Out tip: Rijul’s partial to the fact that their mithai selection changes seasonally. It also means that mango-flavoured sweets are just around the corner.

Price: ₹350 for two 

Timings: Daily. 7am-11.15pm. 

Address: Shops 3 & 7, Dheeraj Arcade,Opp Jude Wines, Dr Ambedkar Road, Pali Mala Rd, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050

Dum Pukht | Dal Makhani

Mumbai’s no match for the dhabas of Delhi when it comes to finding the best dal makhani. But where affordable dining falters, luxury restaurants step in, and you’d better believe this dal chawal might break the bank. Much like its Delhi branch at ITC Maurya, Dum Pukht at the ITC Maratha serves a killer dal makhani for a sweet ₹720, says Rijul. But at least you come armed with the knowledge that you couldn’t be in safer hands, given that the ITC restaurants have comfortably claimed the crown for some of the best North Indian food in the world year after year.

Price: ₹7,500 for two 

Timings: Daily. Noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm. 

Address: ITC Maratha, Shankar Mandal Road, Ashok Nagar, Andheri East, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400099

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Mini Punjab & Jai Jawan | Butter Chicken

Ah, butter chicken. Rijul can wax lyrical on its origin, etymology, and variations. He knows that the original butter chicken was rustic and unrefined, unburdened by silky emulsions and heavy lashings of cream. He knows how adding tomatoes at different times can affect flavour, sweetness, and depth. So if Rijul tells you where to get good butter chicken, you don’t question him. 

His answer may surprise you, but he stands by it: Mini Punjab and Jai Jawan. He feels truly good butter chicken can only be found at stripped-back joints that specialise exclusively in Punjabi classics. 

Price: ₹500 for two at Jai Jawan, ₹1,200 for two at Mini Punjab

Timings: daily, 7am-midnight (Jai Jawan), noon-1.30am (Mini Punjab)

Address: Various 

Khyber | Paneer Makhani

Vegetarians, worry not. Rijul hasn’t forgotten you. Even the staunchest carnivore can admit that paneer makhani’s a solid second choice behind butter chicken when it comes to deciding an accompaniment to garlic naan. If you’re looking for the best variant in Mumbai, Rijul swears by Khyber in Fort. Some white linen-clothed establishments have been around just long enough for you to know they’re bound to be good. 

Generations of locals have been dining at Khyber since it opened in 1958, and though it has a bunch of stellar dishes on offer, Rijul says the paneer makhani’s a classic done ‘better than most’. Rijul also awards Khyber the highest honour of being the best North Indian restaurant in the city!

Price: ₹3,000 for two 

Timings: Daily. Noon-4pm, 7.30-11.30pm. 

Address: 145, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

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Ayub’s | Chicken Tikka

That Rijul and I both love Ayub’s was extremely validating for me to hear. He (as do I, except we’re not here for my recommendations) swears by the succulent, steaming hot plate of chicken tikka, served from the standing joint that’s known primarily as the perfect post-night out spot in Kala Ghoda. There’s nothing like chomping on grilled goodies while being sloshed out of your mind on vodka. 

Price: ₹500 for two people 

Timings: Daily. 4.30pm-1.30am. 

Address: 43, Forbes St, Near Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400001

Salim’s Shahi Sigid | Late Night Street Eats

If you still don't think Ayub’s is worth the trek into town (blasphemy), then Salim’s Shahi Sigid  in Bandra serves some undeniably juicy kebabs, says Rijul. It's the ultimate late night spot, right in the heart of Bandra, no less – so going-out plans almost always end at Salim’s. Getting authentic Mughlai food at 4am is almost unheard of in a city where most vada pav stalls are closed for the night at 7pm. 

Price: ₹500 for two

Timings: Daily. 12.30pm-4am

Address: Shop no 1, Silver croft building, 16&33rd road junction, pali hill, Bandra West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400050

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Comorin | Seekh Kebab

Okay…fair, maybe the seekh kebab isn’t quintessentially Punjabi food. But it’s close enough. For this one, Rijul suggests stepping back into the world of fine dining – Comorin in Lower Parel. What makes their mutton seekh so tantalising is the pool of herb-infused butter it comes drenched in, making it one of the most decadent kebabs on the market. The dish was inspired by the legendary Qureshi Kabab Corner near Jama Masjid. It couldn’t get more Dilli.

Price: ₹3,000 for two 

Timings: Daily. Noon-midnight. 

Address: Peninsula Corporate Park, Peninsula Point, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel West, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400013

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