[category]
[title]
Mumbai’s dining scene never sits still, but some names hold timeless weight, and you likely don’t need to be told that Indian Accent is one of them.
Seated by the restaurant’s commanding floor to ceiling windows, we had front row seats to the Fountain of Joy’s playful pirouettes at the Dhirubhai Ambani Square. But the real affair, of course, unfolded indoors, dish by dish. Take their summer tasting menu, made especially to mark their three-year anniversary, at its BKC outpost in the stunning Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre. We tried it out, and it’s safe to say dinner here is still a slow unspooling of lovely surprises.
The courses at Indian Accent
It’s a sensory narrative written in a language of melons, khus, raw mango, and even karela (bitter gourd). You know you’re in for something special when even the underdog of vegetables gets its time to shine.
The panna pakodi paired tart summer mango with a golden lentil fritter, while the Sholay, a reimagining of a Delhi classic, replaced street side potatoes with goat’s cheese. It’s a risk that could’ve gone wrong, but ends up tasting like a giddy secret you have to keep yourself from spreading the news too far about. And then, strangely, the papdi chaat is also something to look out for. Traditionally a street food staple, but here it arrives in an elegant tartlet shell. Crisp. Tangy. Cool, in that satisfying chaat way.
Just as the meal felt like it might slip into all too familiar territory, out came the lamb karela. We’re told it’s inspired by Awadh’s practice of balancing bitter greens with rich meats, but this isn’t a simple homage. Bitter gourd, muted to a flirtation of flavour, sits atop a crispy naan alongside kalonji and garlic sauce. There’s no time to linger on it – the dry aged duck comes next, khandvi and mango fajeto kadhi whispering Gujarati comfort food in one ear, while papaya chutney sings audacious notes in the other.
The melon and khus sorbet arrives served gola style on a stick, perched inside the cutest miniature pressure cooker, as if challenging your table to share a gentle laugh before the more serious indulgences begin. Then the curtain lifts for the mains, and here’s where the alchemy really grips you.
‘Old Delhi Chicken, Hot Butter, Fenugreek’ is an ode to Aslam butter chicken of Purani Dilli… only this one feels dressed up, tanged over with chaat masala. In sharp contrast is the Iberico pork roast. Sous vide perfection with kada masala and stock for succulence, paired with clever little twists like ‘seaweed poha’ and ‘bacon sev’.
No dish overstays its welcome, and they’re flanked by smart supporting acts like the black dairy dal and feather-light kulchas. And if you’re lucky enough to reach dessert…well, we’re still talking about their mawa kachori.
Flavours with a purpose
It’s heartwarming to know that Indian Accent funds meals for girls living in the Salaam Baalak Trust’s shelter homes. Known for its signature style, Indian flavours embraced by global techniques, the restaurant continues to push boundaries. Born in New Delhi in 2000, with an acclaimed New York chapter since 2016, the Mumbai home still feels rooted, yet forward-looking. In short: still iconic.