The Supperclub Mumbai by Chef Raji

At The Supperclub Mumbai by Chef Raji, Chef Rajshri Gupta swaps restaurant theatrics for the warmth of a Karnataka-style home meal, reimagined with a deft touch.

Our evening began with welcome drinks: a tropical Coconut and Pineapple cooler, and a fiery Guava Chilli concoction. Dinner kicked off with crusty sourdough and two flavoured butters: Andhra Chilli, layered with roasted dried chillies, garlic, curry leaves and a touch of tamarind, and Moringa, subtler and herbaceous, with earthy moringa and curry leaves.

Then came the Elevated Kosambari, a humble salad of soaked moong dal, cucumber, coconut and mustard tempering, with juicy pomelo for a little sweetness and frozen feta grated over the top.

For the main course, Chef Rajshri resisted the urge to over-modernise the flavours. The Chicken Sukka, a coastal Konkani preparation, came with tender meat coated in roasted coconut masala and just the right amount of heat. It was paired with rice-based Akki Roti, meant to be eaten like a taco.

Next was Gassi, another coastal Karnataka classic. Ours was the Fish Gassi, where roasted spices and the cooking technique gave the curry plenty of depth. The vegetarian version came with Madras cucumber. Then came the Donne Biryani, inspired by the Bengaluru Military Hotel style, made with short-grain rice, green masala, whole spices and herbs. It was packed with flavour and perhaps the most comforting plate of the evening.

Dessert was Coconut Rasayana, made with fresh coconut milk, jaggery and fruits including mango, dragon fruit and pineapple. Cooling and simple, this one holds a special place in my heart.

What makes The Supperclub Mumbai by Chef Raji special, though, is Chef Rajshri's storytelling. Before nearly every course, she spoke about memories, regional histories and everyday ingredients that inspired the dishes. The menu changes every time you go, sometimes with familiar dishes approached through a new technique. You don't know exactly what will be served when you book, and that's part of trusting the chef.

Mumbai has no shortage of tasting menus chasing novelty. This 12-seater experience feels much more personal. Chef Rajshri shows that contemporary Indian dining doesn't need molecular tricks. Sometimes, you just need to go back to the roots, add your own take and let the food speak for itself.

Time Out tip: Inform the chef about your food preferences beforehand to avoid inconvenience. Try to arrive 15 minutes early, too – so you can warm up to your dinner companions before service begins.

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