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See Naples and die, they say – and be careful what you wish for, because you really will see it from this 1960s portside towerblock. From its high-altitude rooms – they start at the 16th floor and continue to the 30th – you’ll get a bird’s-eye view of the city and the Bay of Naples. Vesuvius? Rearing up menacingly over there. The Amalfi Coast? Just behind Sorrento, over there. Capri? Floating in the distance. And one of Italy’s most exciting, dynamic cities? That’s it, spilling out all around you. In the slightly staid, modern area around the port, this may not be in the heart of the city – but the views immediately make you feel you are. I’ve always stayed in the more historic areas of Naples, but now I’ve seen these views, I’m ready to die… for the right to return to the NH.
If you like a room with a view, you’re in the right place – this really does offer some of the best views of the city. Following devastating bombing in WWII, the area around Naples’ port was rebuilt postwar. That’s how this 30-storey skyscraper came to square off against Vesuvius in this most historic of cities (forget the Romans; Naples was founded by the ancient Greeks). Today, following a comprehensive redesign in 2019, this is a lovely, laidback hotel that adds five-star views to four-star prices.
Four lifts from reception rocket you up to the 16th floor, where the 222 rooms begin. They continue up to the 30th, and since we’ve already established that this is a place that’s all about the views, the prices rise the higher the floor. While the size notches up a little with every category, the style is always the same: a neutral palette jazzed up with signature NH navy, usually in the shape of an armchair, plus tiled bathrooms with either a standalone shower or a shower over the tub (and NH own-brand toiletries). They’re not the kind of rooms that will have you reaching for your camera – but the views absolutely will, so it’s worth splashing out as far as your budget will go to max them out.
A word about the views – on every floor, and in every category, you’ll find the views split into city and sea. Obviously the sea view is more iconic – you’ll see everything from the port to Posillipo (the chi-chi seaside suburb of Naples), the Sorrentine peninsula and Capri in the distance, as well as landmarks like the sprawling Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace) and the famous circular ‘square’, Piazza del Plebiscito. But don’t write off the city views. Naples has one of Italy’s most dramatic cityscapes, with quartieri (neighbourhoods) spilling down cliff faces and topped with castles, streets laid out in precise grids and the medieval sprawl of the centro storico. A city view cantilevers you over it all, with glimpses of huge church domes, sprawling monastery cloisters, and the Castel Sant’Elmo, erupting over the city like a volcano of its own. If you’re on a budget, you’re not losing out.
So here we go. From the 16th to the 20th floor you’ll find standard rooms. These have just one, relatively small window – so while the views are great you pretty much need to be at the window to see them.
One notch up are the superior rooms, on the 21st to 25th floors. Some have two windows – double that view! Amping up the views on the 26th to 29th floors are the Superior XLs – they’re bigger, and some but not all have two windows.
Of course, the best views are on the top floor but it’s not just about height. The 30th floor used to be a panoramic restaurant, so instead of regular windows, the premium rooms up here have walls of glass. They are truly extraordinary – you’ll be lying in bed watching seagulls swooping past, seeing the sky turn pink at sunset, or (from the top suite) staring at mighty Vesuvius. It’s like your own little eyrie over this most chaotic of cities, and if it’s within your budget, is absolutely worth the upgrade.
There are also excellent options for families, with extra single or sofabeds in family triple rooms, and connecting rooms in all categories.
La Loggetta is the restaurant, on the mezzanine above reception. It’s busy throughout the day (lunch is often booked out for conference groups, though guests are always welcome to eat on the tables sprawling across the mezzanine, even if the restaurant itself is closed for an event). The vast breakfast buffet is a highlight – don’t miss the Neapolitan sfogliatella pastries.
Lunch and dinner are decent but more basic. Options include regular salads and pastas, or mains like burgers, steaks and baked seabass. There’s also a bar on the ground floor near the lobby.
There’s plenty of choice nearby, too. The hotel is bookended by two popular restaurants - Cibarè is my pick with its upmarket menu of Neapolitan classics, including plenty of seafood in the mix. A five-minute trot is the iconic Trattoria da Nennella, where singing staff serve Naples’ classic dish, pasta e patate (pasta with potatoes and cheese, as good as it sounds).
This is a large, four-star hotel so you’re never going to get the kind of personalised service you’d expect at a boutique property. Having said that, the tone is set by the rather suggestive-looking red ceramic sculpture on the check-in desk: the corno dell’amicizia, the ‘horn of friendship’ – an oversized version of Naples’ famous lucky charms. Staff are super friendly (they even called to see if I liked the room after I’d checked in) and are extremely on the ball – when I called down for extra towels, a housekeeper was at the door within a minute or two. A special shout-out goes to the restaurant team, who are unfailingly friendly and helpful at breakfast, and keep the buffet stacked even at the busiest times.
There’s a small gym on the 16th floor overlooking the centro storico (you can see the famous Santa Chiara tiled cloister from here). It’s pretty basic – one treadmill, one bike and weights – but has decent opening hours (8am-11pm) and is rarely busy. There’s also a communal ironing room on the 16th floor – a nice touch – and a cash machine in the lobby, especially helpful for stocking up before running the gauntlet of Naples taxi drivers whose card machines appear to be permanently broken.
You’re just a couple of blocks from the port, here, so this is a perfect, walkable base if you’re taking a ferry, cruise ship or a day trip to the islands (pro tip: leave the port through the air-conditioned tunnel that leads to Piazza Municipio – it even has a moving walkway and a lift to street level - you’ll emerge at the other end of the street from the hotel). This is a very safe area (the police station is right next door) although it’s not the most atmospheric – there’s not any sightseeing in the immediate vicinity. Having said that, you’re well located to see the city on foot – it’s a five-minute walk from Palazzo Reale and Via Toledo (the main drag, which has the atmospheric Quartieri Spagnoli district running off it) and an easy 10-minute stroll to the centro storico. If you’ve mobility issues or are tight for timing, there are always taxis waiting outside.
Two words only: those views. You won’t get a higher, closer, properly panoramic view of the city than from here, and the higher the floor you book, the better the experience. Splashing out on a premium room on the 30th floor really does make all the difference, thanks to those walls of glass. I bagged 3030, a corner room with views over the city and the sea, and will never be satisfied with a lesser room again. For the best value, stay in winter – Naples tends to stay sunny, even in January, and it’s a fantastic winter city break.
DETAILS
Address: Via Medina, 70, 80133 Napoli NA, Italy
Price per night: Standard rooms average around €200 per night. Premium rooms usually cost around €100 more than the entry-level ones.
Closest transport: The port is a 10-minute walk, and Municipio metro station is at the end of the street.
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