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Permanently docked in Rotterdam, the historic ship SS Rotterdam had a mid-century modern heyday when it cruised the seas between 1959 and 2000; today it’s a weird and wacky WestCord hotel. Walking La Grand Dame’s enclosed and open promenades; exploring grand ballroom spaces, restaurants and bars with 1960s décor; peering at old-style lifeboats; and even getting a little chill from perceived ghostly activity: it’s all part of the unusual stay here. Bonus points if you go straight here from Holland America’s still-sailing MS Rotterdam like my sister and I did – the hotel is the fifth iteration of the Rotterdam ships, while the cruise ship is the seventh. Your fun begins by walking on board on one of the several gangplanks.
What are the rooms like at SS Rotterdam?
These are last century’s cruise ship rooms, so they are, we’ll admit, on the small side. We were originally assigned an interior room for €145 which felt claustrophobic without natural light; a €25 upgrade brought us to a room with porthole views of the water and the Katendrecht district. The 254 four-star rooms are original, Manhattan or Bahamas themed, and there are eight different room configurations with their own prices. Our standard double room in the original theme had dark red carpeting, built-in cabinets of fine wood (including a fold-down writing desk and a vanity) and a vintage tiled bathroom. The bed itself looked so bare bones I worried it was missing its coverlet; you could see the mattress. The room included two complimentary waters, an espresso machine and kettle, free wifi and a TV. There are no USB ports or adapters, although they are for sale in the hotel gift shop.
What is the food like at the SS Rotterdam?
There are several options. Breakfast (€20 per person, not included with stay), lunch and dinner are served in the Lido Grill with a KOPA charcoal oven and large window views of the dock and environs. You can also choose a four- or five-course chef’s menu at the Club Room when it reopens for the season Sept 1. Drinks and bites are available at the Captains Lounge and Ocean Wine Bar. The lounge consists of a large bar and separate chambers filled with MCM furnishings; its menu includes items like truffle fries and a Dutch savory snack called bitterballen, a meat ragout rolled into balls and deep fried. Winningly, the staff here wear sailors’ uniforms as if the vessel is underway. We sadly arrived too late to enjoy the Ocean Wine Bar’s curated pours but peeked inside; the ceilings are covered in what look like fish scales.
What is the service like at the SS Rotterdam?
We found check-in to be frustratingly slow, but security officer Sylvana Breed was an exceptional tour guide who charmingly, humorously showed my sister and me through the ship’s spaces, unlocking doors and turning on lights as we went. This was a special journalist’s tour, but you can also take one of three official audio tours; the all-encompassing tour is €17 for anyone coming aboard, discounted to €14.50 for hotel guests, and further discounted for children. Breed said that many helpers at the SS Rotterdam, including the shuttle drivers, are volunteers who simply love the ship and sharing it with visitors.
What are the facilities like at the SS Rotterdam?
There’s a lot on board to entertain you, including Escape Rooms. ‘The Metro’ experience includes access to a literal Metro train parked in the bowels in the ship, while ‘Deep Sea Deception’ temporarily traps you in the old cold storage room. There’s a Kids Playroom, and a movie about the ship’s history plays for free in one of the public rooms. Be sure to build in time to explore the ship on your own, with an eye to appreciating the beautiful artwork and furnishings. You can penetrate into the captain’s living room, visit the bridge, walk the promenades that are reminiscent of the Titanic and see gorgeous colour-blocked carpets and quirky geometric designwork everywhere in disused smoking lounges, bars and restaurants. On the top deck with fairy lights, catch sunset and a view of the harbor and its lights. If you enjoy being mildly creeped out, the swimming pool is below decks in a dark area. It isn’t swimmable, but it is a Backrooms-worthy liminal space (a top deck pool was emptied of water during our visit). The massive engine room with its green painted machinery is said to be haunted. There’s an eerie pleasure in walking through abandoned hotspots where passengers once lifted martinis in gloved hands.
What’s the area like around the SS Rotterdam?
There’s not much going on directly around the ship – it’s basically a safe, quiet dock – but you can jump on the hotel’s free shuttle to/from the Rijnhaven metro station to find restaurants, museums and nightlife elsewhere. My sister and I made our way to the pedestrian-friendly Binnenwegplein area to do a little shopping. There’s also a city bus that comes to the ship, as well as a water taxi – and the hotel offers rental bikes.
DETAILS
Address: 3e Katendrechtsehoofd 25, 3072 AM Rotterdam
Price per night: Prices start at €116 per night
Closest transport link: The 77 bus or Metro station Rijnhaven