Agatha

If you can make a living for four decades serving a fish as fickle as fugu, you’re probably doing something right. At Agatha, plump 1.5kg pufferfish are available fresh in the restaurant’s own tanks year-round, ready to be cut up into thick pieces and served either as springy sashimi (‘tessa’) or in shabu-shabu form with ponzu sauce. Either way, the flesh is luxuriously light and mellow, with a refined hint of umami. Not a fugu fan? Try some other type of sashimi, or go for the excellent kushikatsu.