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While staying true to the instantly recognisable aesthetics, no-frills flavours and accommodating pricing of traditional chuka – Japanified Chinese cuisine – Yamaguchi rises above the crowd with its commitment to quality ingredients, homemade sauces and frequently changing but always inspired dinner specials. In autumn, look out for dishes incorporating distinctive local produce like Manchurian wild rice stems (makomodake), which are grown in the nearby village of Chihaya-Akasaka.