A throwback to simpler and smokier days, coffee shop Doremi has been serving up pitch-black coffee, custard pudding, cream soda and other kissaten essentials in the shadow of the iconic Tsutenkaku tower since 1967. The vine-covered building and displays of colourful plastic food samples by the entrance contribute to the retro atmosphere, as do the round silver lamps and vermillion furniture inside, where guidebook-toting tourists rub shoulders with ageing locals burying their noses in newspapers.
The menu book, its cover adorned with a cute waiter-clad cat, includes a long list of sandwiches and desserts from pancakes to the aforementioned pudding. King among the sweet treats is the Pudding Royale, a firmish little indulgence doused in caramel sauce and served with beautiful cuts of fruits including apple, banana, peach, orange and pineapple.