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Yao wakagobo burdock root and a plethora of other local heirloom greens feature prominently in the Italian-inspired dishes served to complement the carefully curated wines and sake at this snug bar, housed in an atmospheric space under the railway tracks near Kintetsu Yao Station. Koto Ryokushu is a labour of love and a true haven for friends of aromatic tipples, whether grape- or rice-based.