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With more than a century of history dealing in nothing but its signature udon, Usamitei Matsubaya sure has the art of noodle-making nailed down. Try the ojiya udon, served in a small iron pot in which the thick wheat noodles are accompanied by a raw egg, seafood such as shrimp and conger eel, various vegetables, and a dollop of rice. Once a staple dish at worker’s caffs across Osaka, this innard-warming delicacy has become a rarity these days but remains one of the most popular choices on the menu here.