Pontocho Kaburenjo, Kyoto

Spring in Kyoto offers more than just cherry blossoms – it’s also the season for odori, traditional spring dances that have been performed for more than a century. Every year from late March through May, four geisha districts in Kyoto – Gion Kobu, Miyagawacho, Kamishichiken and Pontocho – take turns staging geiko (the Kyoto term for ‘geisha’) and maiko (apprentice geisha) performances at their own kaburenjo (theatres). While each theatre has its unique style and choreography, the dances all feature exquisite costumes. These spring dances are the perfect opportunity to see the elusive performing artists in person and learn about one of Kyoto's most fabled traditions. The Kamogawa Odori in Pontocho has been held annually since 1872, save for two interruptions, one of which is due to World War II. For more than 40 years between 1951 and 1998, the Kamogawa Odori even expanded to autumn, making it the Kyoto odori with the most performances. The Kamogawa Odori consists of two acts, starting with a playful dance drama. This is followed by a pure dance segment known as the ‘odori emaki’, a performance that presents the dazzling and graceful movements of geiko and maiko like a ‘moving picture scroll’. There are three shows daily – 12.30pm, 2.20pm and 4.10pm – each lasting approximately 70–75 minutes. Tickets cost ¥6,000 per person, or you could upgrade to the ¥7,000 option, which comes with a geiko tea ceremony before the performance.