For a peek into the vacationing habits of quality-conscious Osakans, look no further than this time-honoured hot-spring inn in the rural southern part of the prefecture. The sprawling grounds of Nanten-en include an impeccably manicured garden, a gourd-shaped pond and even an outdoor swimming pool. At the centre is the main building, a registered cultural property designed by the early-20th-century architect Kingo Tatsuno, the man behind famous structures such as Tokyo Station and the Bank of Japan headquarters.
The hot springs are open 24 hours a day and welcome all guests, including tattooed visitors. Advertised as being rich in natural radium (but not harmfully radioactive, mind you!), they’re said to improve blood circulation and smoothen the skin. In any case, a dip in these sweat-inducing waters prepares you well for any of the substantial kaiseki meals served at Nanten-en, made with local, seasonal ingredients.
Nanten-en is conveniently accessible from central Osaka. The trip on a Nankai Koya line train from Nankai Namba Station to Amami Station takes around 40 minutes, and the inn is right next to Amami Station.