Why go? For seasonal, no-choice menus from a star chef.
‘Concept restaurant’. Ominous, eh? Not so here. This little Leigh spot has a short, daily-changing set menu that reads like a lyrical paean to smart, seasonal cooking. Behold: summer peas and pods with sour cream; fennel kimchi with pork belly; cultured butter; peaches and pippin berries. At £45 a head for four courses plus snacks, it’s also something of a steal.