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[title]Mist was still obscuring the pre-Alps on the crisp autumn morning that I boarded the sauna boat on Lake Zurich in Switzerland. Fluttering sails of small vessels beckoned me into the serene, blue-gray water as I grabbed the wheel, pushed the engine lever forward and slowly joined them.
The other boaters were out for a Sunday morning sail. But in a few moments, I'd be jumping into the chilly lake.
The Sauna Boat (or Saunaboot), run by Bootsvermietung Enge, allows anyone, regardless of nautical knowledge, to drive around the lake's 34 square miles on their own and choose an out-of-the-way spot to use as their own cold-plunge locale after spending some time in a private dry sauna aboard the boat.
When my crew of two and I stopped the boat parallel to one of the banks, I headed to the back to pour some fresh lake water on the wood-burning stove and soak in the heat. Just eight minutes in, I decided it was enough and made my way to the little ladder at the front of the boat. From the bow of the boat, I could see several feet down into the lake's clear water, kelp dancing just beneath the surface. It was time to plunge.
I never thought I'd dip even a toe in a city's lake water, but here I was, about to immerse myself (head to my toes) in Lake Zurich. I'd only been in the city for a day and I was about to put my full trust in the locals' claim that the water is clean.
With a quick push away from the ladder, I was in the lake. The cool water was a shock to my system as I made my plunge — and I emerged fully convinced that to live in (and visit) Zurich is to drink, swim, and travel its waterways.
Unlike in many cities, where swimming in the municipality's water source is a questionable move at best, Lake Zurich's water really is clear and clean. The public swims safely in almost all of Switzerland's lakes and rivers, according to its Federal Office for the Environment (FOEN).
It turns out that Zurich, along with its neighboring cities and cantons, is a water sports haven.
For those who haven't traveled to Switzerland before, it's easy to associate it and its oft-snowy peaks as a skiing destination only. But Zurich locals know that's only a sliver of its identity.
"When visitors first set foot in Zurich, they might be surprised by the almost Mediterranean feel in this vibrant city," a Zürich Tourism spokesperson says. "Water is omnipresent in Zurich. In every season, inhabitants and visitors spend their time by, in, or on the water."
Its waterside culture definitely challenged my assumptions. Throughout the day, people of all ages were flocking to Lake Zurich and its two rivers to fish, paddle board, sail, kayak, wakeboard, enjoy the view, swim, and dive off of bridges even.
But Lake Zurich isn't the only watering hole. The city also boasts two rivers: the Limmat and the Sihl, which serve as a major "third space" for residents and tourists to gather. Walking into Zurich West along the Limmat, I came across a string of biergartens, a hip spot for younger adults to hang out with a drink in hand. People sat on amphitheater-like seating to watch while others zipped down the avenue on bikes and scooters. Artists spraypainted new street art on the area's retaining walls. Many of them had already taken a dip before settling in half-clothed at a table along the riverfront. It was as natural as a New Yorker taking a smoke before heading into a bar—just far more invigorating.
Swimming against a strong current, Zurich locals demonstrated their swimming prowess to a crowd of half-interested bar patrons. Others in wetsuits climbed a tall bridge and dove off to my utter amazement.
What makes this water culture thrive is not just how clean and clear the water is, it's how accessible the city has made it. The lake and rivers are free to access and have facilities that make enjoying the water super easy.
Flussbad Untere Letten in the Limmat has a 1,312-foot-long swimming channel in the Limmat and a 6-and-a-half-foot high diving platform. The Unterer Letten in Zurich West's stretch of the Limmat has a 328-foot-long swimming channel, a non-swimmer’s pool, a children's wading pool and a diving platform.
"Whether it's sailing on the lake, kayaking down the rivers, filling bottles with pristine, drinkable water in the over 1,200 fountains, or simply enjoying the numerous waterside cafes, Zurich is a water sports paradise that marries urban sophistication and tranquillity with unexpected ease," the Zurich Tourism spokesperson told me.
And if the lake and rivers aren’t enough, there is a man-made wave pool nearby in Zurich West called Urbansurf Zurich, giving you the chance to practice your surfing skills even though the nearest ocean beach is over 300 miles away.
Young and old were surfing in the middle of the city on a random Saturday afternoon in October.
The “Urbansurf platform," near the Hardbrücke railway station, provides an endless wave for surfing on. Up to six people can ride the wave in 30-minute slots you can book online or in person (instructors can help you learn how to surf for a fee). Even this experience is something you can sit for free and watch with a drink. There are vendors selling food and drink and music to keep the surf party going.
Consider my eyes opened: Zurich is a beautiful watersports paradise—not simply a skiing destination.
