When French chef Julien Perraudin opened Quince in a renovated mansion in District 1 in 2018, he brought with him a philosophy honed in the kitchens of London, Melbourne and Bangkok - that fine dining needn’t equate to fuss or frippery. Instead, Quince is anchored by the ancient alchemy of wood and flame, where every dish emerges from ovens that have been burning since the doors opened.
The vibe: Moodily lit to emphasise the glow of the grill, exposed brick walls and copper fixtures create a casual-luxe aesthetic that carries through in the service and dishes. French speakers will appreciate the wordplay of the neon 'Au bon coing' sign hanging above that counter - "au bon coin" (at the good spot) becomes "au bon coing" (at the good quince), and everything feels right with the world.
Though there are larger tables in the warehouse-chic dining room, the best place to eat is without doubt on one of the six counter seats, overlooking the 500°C furnaces. Sure, you'll leave thoroughly seasoned with smoke, sure, but you won't regret a minute of it.
The food: Neither salt nor fish sauce, wood is the primary seasoning at Quince, and Perraudin personally selects different log types—iron bark for high-heat searing, and fruit woods for slower roasts—to ensure that luxury ingredients are given the respect they deserve.
So, that's barbecued Hokkaido scallops with morteau sausage cappelletti and a decadent Vin Jaune sauce, or grilled foie gras and bluefin tuna Akami with smoked vinaigrette. The aged Barbary duck breast is the headlining dish. It comes with braised endive, mostarda di frutta, and a duck jus that represents the kitchen's most refined expression.
Dessert keeps the theme burning with a smoky sourdough mousse and golden passion fruit sorbet. For those needing cleansing after all that fire, house sorbets come with a pour of vodka or Chartreuse.
The drinks: The wine list emphasises Mediterranean regions with close to 200 selections, while the beer selection remains limited to European imports.
The connected Madam Kew cocktail bar upstairs serves classics and house creations. End your night fittingly with a sultry Wabi-Sabi, an intoxicating mix of mezcal, yuzu, matcha, and vanilla. It's garnished with a banana marshmallow.
Time Out tip: Book ahead for counter seats for the full wood-fired experience.