Overlooking a petite, pedestrianised square tucked away in a peaceful corner of Holland Park, the landmark Julie’s attracts the same kind of customers for whom Julie Hodgess opened the place in 1969: successful creatives, most with their own children and grandchildren (note the groundbreaking Sunday crèche, which runs until 4pm), who chat over well-chosen wines in the various cosy rooms and on the roof terrace that make up the two-level bar and restaurant.
The near 40-strong wine list features Julie’s own Bordeaux Maison Sichel (£22), plus quality labels such as a Sancerre Gérard Morin 2007 Loire and a Chablis 1er Cru Domaine des Montmains 2007 JM Brocard, handily available in a half-bottle measure. A dozen come by two sizes of glass, most notably a Marqués de Riscal Reserva Rioja 2006 and a Sauvignon Esprit de Serame 2009.
There’s also Breton cider from Val de Rance, standard cocktails (around a tenner) and pricey bottles of Budvar, Cobra and Stella. Still, you’re not here for the beer, are you?