Bars & Pubs

Through the door ('Poussez') of this venerable Gallic establishment have passed many titanic drinkers of the pre- and post-war era, the Bacons and the Behans, the venue's French heritage also enticing De Gaulle to run a Resistance operation from upstairs. His snozzle still fills the photograph behind the bar, beer is still served in half pints and litre bottles of Breton cider (£7) are still plonked on the famed back alcove table of this small but significant establishment. History aside, the squeeze and the smoking ban force post-work crowds out of the door ('Tirez') summer and winter to congregate under the tricolour and merge with today's busier, blander Soho.

Time Out Bars, Pubs & Clubs Guide 2008/9