The appeal of the Benihana teppanyaki chain lies in its ‘food as event’ concept. All hot dishes are prepared on a teppan: a large hot-plate at centre stage on each table. On Sunday lunchtimes particularly, when hoards of families arrive, cooking becomes theatre. First, there’s an explosion of fire as the teppan is cleaned. Our chef started with an onion, which soon became a volcano and then a steam train. The rice was a beating heart, the chicken a caterpillar. It’s a natty way of charging a lot for what is essentially a pretty unremarkable stir-fry. The sushi is distinctly average too. Still, service is impeccably friendly and helpful, and you won’t leave feeling like you’ve had a bad time – though you might think you’ve paid too much for such food.