Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Tue Dec 15 2009
There are three strands to Giancarlo and Katie Caldesi’s London operation: an informal bar-caffè on the ground floor, a smarter restaurant upstairs, and a cookery school in the mews round the back – and that’s without the cooking holidays in Giancarlo’s native Tuscany. Downstairs is the most lively: a warmly lit space filled with the clatter of cutlery. Antipasti platters, pasta dishes and a limited selection of meat main courses are served here. Several of these plates recur on the menu of the starched, professionally staffed first-floor restaurant, which attracts an older, more buttoned-up class of customer. The kitchen’s output is pretty hard to fault, especially when it turns out confident dishes like raw sea bass, with a brininess tempered by refreshing orange and fennel slivers. More muscular flavours are just as well-executed, such as a rich calf’s liver with the yielding texture of butter, draped languidly over a mound of spinach. Pasta dishes bear the melt-in-the-mouth, home-style hallmark, so they can shine without much more adornment than a smattering of fresh fungi and cherry tomatoes. Capital dining then, even if the atmosphere is a little restrained upstairs.
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