Canton

Time Out says

Thu Sep 29 2011

A long-standing feature of Chinatown, this unassuming café changed hands in 2012, losing it a few of its more ardent fans. The dishes we sampled a few months later suggested why.

The best came first: a great-value ‘starter’ portion of wonton soup, which translated to a large bowl of broth containing five juicy pork dumplings (costing a mere £3.50). We also enjoyed a plate of barbecued duck, warmed and removed from the bone, but were disappointed by the accompanying sauce, which was swimming in oil. A plate of salt and chilli squid delivered on texture, but the dish was marred by an excess of sodium.

Our advice? Stick to the one-bowl, rice-with-meat dishes, which are served the traditional way (with the rice warm and the roast meat cold), and at £5.50 remain an eminently wallet-friendly meal.

Service was pleasant, and the space unusually calm by Chinatown standards, helped by the easy-listening Cantonese soundtrack playing in the background. The setting is simple: just a single room, decked out in neutral tones and wood-veneer furniture.