Hélène Darroze at the Connaught

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  • French
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Mayfair
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3 courses & a glass of champagne: £38

From a set menu.

Offer valid until Sep 6 2015

The setting is an historic Mayfair dining room with gorgeous wood panelling, and the cuisine very French, very refined, and very well served by genial staff.

Genial staff take obvious pleasure in working this historic dining room, with its beautiful wood panelling and floral plasterwork ceiling. India Mahdavi’s feminine interior of velvety golds complements the original features, while Damien Hirst’s artwork keeps it grounded in the present.

Waistcoats, silver jugs and Baccarat crystal denote formality, so first-timers may be surprised by the rusticity of the food on display: a leg of ham for carving, butter pats as big as cheese truckles, huge biscuit jars. Best to go with the flow. Darroze put trendy piment d’espelette on the culinary map and her menus reveal a passion for all things peppery. Yet this is not fiery cuisine; sometimes we wish it was a little less French, such as in the irritating refinement of hake with razor clams, salsa verde and minuscule girolles, which anywhere else would have been a muscular dish. No complaints, though, about perfectly proportioned foie gras crème brûlée with bright apple sorbet.

Dessert was a clever globe of chocolate, which, when hot chocolate sauce was poured over, collapsed to reveal a layered tower of black-forest-themed indulgences. The sweet avalanche continued with a whole trolley of petits fours to choose from – cinnamon marshmallow and an apricot and salted-caramel macaron were particular favourites.

Such is the special-occasion nature of the place that everyone is presented with a personalised souvenir menu; but rest assured, the experience is memorable in its own right.

 

Venue name: Hélène Darroze at the Connaught
Contact:
Address: The Connaught
London
W1K 2AL
Cross street: Carlos Place
Opening hours: Lunch served noon-2.30pm Tue-Fri. Brunch served 11am-2.30pm Sat. Dinner served 6.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat
Transport: Tube: Bond Street
Price: Set lunch/brunch £35 3 courses (£42 incl 2 glasses of wine). Set meal £80 3 courses, £98-£120 tasting menu (£196-£240 incl wine)

Average User Rating

3.7 / 5

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LiveReviews|3
2 people listening
bowertron
Staff Writer

awful service, bland food. supposed to be a special occasion and it was ruined.