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Please note, this joint of Kerbisher & Malt is now closed. The branch in Hammersmith is still open. Time Out Food editors, FEBRUARY 2020.
The gentrification of Abbeville Road continues apace with the opening of this branch of a fast-expanding and upmarket fish and chip shop chain in the summer of 2014. Past the takeaway hatch, wood-panelled booths and industrial lighting give it a knowingly retro look, back to the days when the seas were our to plunder and fish suppers were a staple of the working classes. But K&M have moved with the times, and offer sustainable coley among their options: a good, meaty fish, particularly appealing in the matzo meal option (the white fish can also be battered or grilled for traditionalists). The chips, twice-fried, are perfectly crisped on the outside while tasting of tuber within. The breaded and deep-fried calamari were also pleasingly grease-free, and the little extras, such as a fennel and dill salad, lift the humble fish supper to the sublime. Other pluses include a decent selection of wines and bottled Meantime beers.