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Perched at the zenith of London-based fish and chippery, Kerbisher & Malt works within pretty tight strictures. There are, after all, only so many possible variations on the theme of deep-frying seafood and potatoes. Hence, the kitchen team tweak every stage of the process to make the food as appealing as possible. This means high-quality fillets dunked in floaty-light batter, cooked freshly to order. Chips are double-fried, the tartare sauce is rich and made in-house, and the onion rings have been ‘pickled’, adding an appealing vinegar tang. So committed are the owners to transparency that they’ve installed a CCTV screen to allow punters in the dining room to watch the chefs slicing haddock and mushing peas. Extras are good too; fish finger butties, lightly spiced fish cake burgers with a twist of lemon mayo, and pots of piping-hot breaded calamares all add to the experience. The long shared table is permanently filled with families tucking into piles of pollock; regulars pop in for boxes of whitebait; and there’s a steady stream of custom from noon until 6pm, attracted by the early specials.
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