Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Sep 25 2012
Kettner’s has long had an air of nostalgia about it, having been through several incarnations in its long history. When it was a posh version of Pizza Express, it exuded a tatty, faded glamour. Reborn as a brasserie, the shabbiness was replaced by swish decor redolent of the restaurant’s 1930s heyday, with palms, mirrors and a somewhat glitzy champagne bar. The place has a definite buzz, but it seems to be more about the setting (and the closely packed tables) than the food. The menu features tried-and-tested classics – the likes of beef carpaccio, oysters and smoked salmon to start, with coq au vin, beef bourgignon and steaks to follow – with the occasional more modish dish, such as belly pork. We tried a small, rather bland piece of pollock on a bed of overcooked cabbage, and a succulent steak, cooked rare as requested, though served with a rather bijou salad. Puddings shone, however – a mango crème brûlée was a dense delight. Overall, though, we would have liked cooking with a bit more gusto, and generosity: £16.50 seemed a lot to pay for a small piece of fish, however chi-chi the surroundings.
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