Restaurants

To reach Narnia you went through a wardrobe; here you press the buzzer on the door of this former school to enter another world. Grimy Shoreditch is left outside, and suddenly there are pretty flowerbeds and a lawn with people enjoying coffee and cakes. In the old classrooms, artists and other creatives are at work. The bike shed has been turned into a white, utilitarian restaurant with a large open kitchen. Service is sweet, knowledgeable and professional, so its inefficiency is a surprise. The chefs release dishes far too slowly given this is a lunch venue. It’s hard to fault the food, though. The daily-changing menu exhibits the earthiness and simplicity developed by co-owner Margot Henderson with her husband Fergus . White cabbage, radish and feta salad was creamy, fresh and light: a glamorous take on coleslaw. Warm morel and cep salad featured generous chunks of mushrooms among the vibrant leaves. Mains may include a dish for sharing, such as black bream with grilled fennel and roast tomato. Despite hearty portions, we couldn’t refuse the rich, heady cherry (and sherry) trifle. To drink, bring your own wine or stick with ginger beer.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009