Restaurants

A classic piece of once-workaday old London, Bermondsey Street has taken on a much more suave look of late, as its former sweatshops are taken over by studios, chic jewellers and places to eat and hang out. The Bermondsey Kitchen was a curtain-raiser to the street’s renovation, and has the most laid-back, friendly atmosphere, with an open range, hefty wooden tables and gastropub-style leather sofas near the bar. Its cooking is consistently enterprising, with daily-changing menus based on well-sourced, frequently-organic ingredients. The usual list shows strong Iberian influences, but also offers unusual and original combinations such as pan-fried pigeon breast wrapped in parma ham – a bit tough, but interesting. A more conventional goat’s cheese, walnut and pear salad, though, hit all the right spots, and penne with courgettes, blue cheese and pesto made a satisfying vegetarian main course. More typical of the kitchen’s inventiveness was roast chicken stuffed with black pudding with swede purée and spinach – potentially over the top, but a beautifully smooth, subtle mix. Our well-priced Navajas Rioja was just as smooth, and staff were likeably welcoming. There are bargain single-course lunch dishes in the week, and a popular weekend brunch.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009