Restaurants

Never before has anybody successfully paired barbecue with sophistication, but somehow Bodeans pulls it off. Not on the ground floor, though thats a casual walk-in diner, where crowds of US and Canadian expats gather to watch football and baseball games on the numerous TVs, and the door-handles are shaped like pigs heads. The basement, on the other hand, is another world, with leather banquettes and booths, soothing lighting, wood panelling and televisions showing football and baseball. Oh well, you cant have it all. The main attraction is the (short) menu of spare, baby-back and beef ribs, big grilled steaks, pulled pork, chicken and brisket, and the sheer fun of eating down-home barbecue food in oh-so-sophisticated Soho (there are also branches in Clapham and Fulham). The grill is used expertly; all our meat was perfectly cooked. Sides of sweet baked beans and fries are almost superfluous, given the huge plates of meat. Its virtually impossible to save room for a slice of cool key lime pie for dessert. Not for vegetarians.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008