The Ritz

Time Out says

Wed Oct 17 2012

Stepping inside the Ritz restaurant, which opened in 1906, is like being transported back in time. The Louis XVI-inspired room is regally attired, with polished marble columns, thick-pile cerise carpet and dazzling chandeliers. Service is old-school and courtly, with staff formally greeting diners.

We were informed at the time of booking that gentlemen were required to wear a jacket and tie: an inconvenience, but given such surroundings it would be incongruous not to dress up. High entry-level prices help ensure exclusivity; the lunch menu is £45 for three courses and the wine list rises quickly from a punishing £49. We opted for the five-course lunch at £65.

After a stuttering start with lacklustre breads and amuse-bouche, our faith was restored by a refreshing chilled tomato consommé with tomatoes of various colours, and tender langoustines, followed by a rich ballotine of goose liver offset by peach coulis. The executive chef, John Williams MBE, keeps religiously to the culinary template laid down by Escoffier, but the cooking can feel too familiar – like upmarket event catering – and it lacked sparkle. There were slips too: our turbot, poached in butter, came with badly overcooked oxtail and was just saved by the lemon verbena sauce. Slow-cooked veal with white beans was tender yet bland, and the jus was salty.

At least the final act was a good one: praline parfait arrived with a garnish of gold leaf, and an excellent mandarin sorbet. We loved the grandeur here, but felt the cooking was overshadowed by the setting.