Bibendum Oyster Bar

There's an irony in the corpulent form of Bibendum, the Michelin man, looking down upon the stick-thin ladies lunching at this relaxed seafood café in the tiled foyer of the Michelin building. Oysters are what to order, with four varieties offered, including a seasonal treat of six native Colchester No.2s for £19.75.Elaborate plateaux de fruits de mer are available, but we were delighted with a large crab (in the shell) with a mustard-rich mayonnaise. Shellfish is also sold to take home, from the crustacea stall outside. The menu incorporates salads and lighter dishes too: gravadlax or smoked salmon perhaps, or maybe roll-mops with crème fraîche and onion salad.Non-piscivores have the likes of egg mayonnaise, or the house terrine, and there are daily-changing specials. Veal polpettone meatballs with penne was let down by oddly crispy pasta.Desserts are excellent renditions of classics, like our crème brûlée. You can also order nibbles (crostini, a charcuterie plate) to accompany drinks from the concise wine list, which offers house wines by the glass or 469ml carafe. Vinophiles might prefer to choose from the impressive (if pricey) full list from the first-floor Bibendum restaurant, which is also available here.