Ovelia

Rather than open another cookie-cutter souvlaki joint or Greek taverna in Astoria, the owners have gotten groovy with the decor at this small plates restaurant and lounge. The octopus is a marvel of tentacles parboiled until tender, then grilled. Classic dips go beyond the usual skordalia and include spicy mashed feta served with warm, oregano-scented pita bread. The addictive meat platter combines velvety sweetbreads, rotisserie chicken, roasted pork and lamb, herb-dusted liver and orange-zest–spiked homemade loukaniko sausage. Try some of the better-than-expected Greek wines.