Bresaola with grilled zucchini

Photograph: Jeff Guriwn

When it opened last December, Capri Caffe quickly became the luncheonette of choice for the area’s daytime workforce. With its Christmas-light-trimmed awning and Mediterranean-tiled interior, the festive spot stands out from the neighbhorhood’s anonymous shawarma joints and chain eateries. But it’s the toothsome Caprese fare, such as tramezzini sandwiches layered with grilled vegetables and house-made mozzarella, that keeps the 16 seats filled. It’s also a good option for dinner. When we arrived, co-owner Eddy Erazo offered us a taste of his private stash of Super Tuscan (the BYOB restaurant has no liquor license). We started with antipasti chosen from an array of vegetables and salads: fresh peas brightened by mint and thyme, luscious ricotta baked with peppercorns. The bresaola appetizer was another winner, with paper-thin slices of dry-cured beef draped over a nest of endives topped with grilled zucchini. Meanwhile, behind the counter, Lembo prepares pastas on a two-burner stove with the dexterity of a DJ spinning vinyl. His bolognese—ground beef simmered with tomatoes and basil—lightly coated rigatoni nanoseconds shy of being undercooked. Capri’s modest portions leave room for dessert: We savored a cannoli filled with mousselike coffee ricotta. Although we wish the plastic cups and utensils were replaced by the real thing, the quality and affordability of the meal did plenty to compensate. It’s just a matter of time before the lunch crowd starts returning for dinner.

—TONY