Description
What sets apart this new Fort Greene spot is its claim to offering “real New York barbecue.” But partners Craig Samuel (City Hall) and Ben Grossman (Picholine, La Grenouille) don’t stray far from the four basic ’cue groups: ribs, chicken, brisket and pork. “Brooklyn wings” had plenty of smoky flavor, and the lean, slightly singed baby back ribs tasted of hickory, mesquite and maple woods. House sauces were especially addictive: Piquant “joint smoke” is cooked for six hours, and the vinegary “holla-peña” is made with sambal spice. The space sports a honky-tonk look, with a bright-orange paint job and enclosed porch.