Yes, it has a killer wine list, but the restaurant’s initials don’t stand for appellation d’origine contrôlée. The moniker derives instead from the title of a popular French gastro-film, L’aile ou la cuisse (“the wing or the thigh”). You’ll find an extensive menu, from breakfast and lunch (pastries, croque-monsieur) to dinner standards (duck confit, moules frites). Salmon tartare is a comfort food of sorts, served with homemade potato chips and cocktail sauce, while hanger steak is lightened by a sauce of wine, shallots and port.
314 Bleecker St
|Cross street:||at Grove St|
|Opening hours:||Daily 8am–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq|
|Price:||Average main course: $17. AmEx|