Critics' pick
Photograph: Virginia Rollison

Chef-owner Nate Smith, who earned his gastropub stripes at the Spotted Pig, breaks out on his own with this laid-back Williamsburg tavern. The 47-seat space is done up with a reclaimed pine bar, vintage wallpaper in different patterns and brass-hunting-horn chandeliers with matching sconces. Choose from chefly bar grub (like smoked-trout spread or spicy pork-stuffed pastry rounds); heartier dishes (such as roasted lamb or shellfish stew); and greens (including a chicory salad with figs and pomegranate). The drinks list takes a locavore slant with small-production wines and craft beers on tap, plus a selection of market-driven cocktails.

Venue name: Allswell
Address: 124 Bedford Ave
New York
Cross street: at North 10th St
Opening hours: Sun–Thu 10am–2am; Fri, Sat 10am - 4am
Transport: Subway: L to Bedford Ave
Price: Average main course: $22. MC, V
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