From the outside, airy Aperitivo has the appearance of an inviting neighborhood restaurant. Floor-to-ceiling windows telegraph the bold words bar and cafe; inside, there are exposed brick and warm yellow walls. But one flop after another proved that the simplest dishes are the toughest to master. Tagliatelle bolognese featured pasty noodles that ripped upon contact with the fork in a bland, lukewarm meat sauce; greasy pork saltimbocca was unbearably salty. A tartufo dessert made with chocolate ice cream and a zabaglione center was decent enough, but had clearly come prepackaged. As the saying goes: Things aren’t always what they appear.
279 Fifth Ave
|Cross street:||at 1st St|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat, Sun 10:30am–midnight|
|Transport:||Subway: R to Union St|
|Price:||Average main course: $12. AmEx, MC, V|