Opa! Tony’s Souvlaki

You can find finer Greek restaurants in Astoria, but few are as welcoming, or as cheap, as this humble spot—virtually unchanged since 1969. Twinkling lights set the mood, and starters like scordalia (potato-garlic spread), best consumed with the addictive “village bread” from the attached bakery, get the party going. A hunk of rich moussaka or an earthy platter of loukanika (pork sausage) and keftedes (spiced meatballs) will satisfy big appetites for a pittance.