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An elegant setting—bottle-lined walls, gleaming wood floors, plush banquettes—isn’t matched by the food at his modern Italian eatery. Seafood is a highlight on an otherwise iffy menu: Marinated Sicilian anchovies were tempered by a refreshing apple, pear and cucumber salad in one bracing appetizer; delicate branzino was complemented by a lush parsnip puree in an entrée. Landlubbing dishes—including gooey gnocchi and a stringy Tuscan steak frites—disappointed. Friendly service and fair prices make Bar Luna a decent place if you’re already in the ’hood—just don’t make a special trip.