Centolire

Photograph: Lloyd Ziff
Centolire
Upper East Side
One hundred lire wasn’t all that much even before the euro arrived, and it wouldn’t help much at this outpost from Pino Luongo. “Up or down?” the host will ask when you arrive. Go upstairs, where potted sunflowers light up a room overlooking Madison Avenue. The service is delightful; it’s nice when a waiter mentions prices for the specials, and the staff seems to truly enjoy tossing your panzanella Toscana (bread salad with cucumber and tomato) tableside. Desserts are great: Each bite of the tangerine soufflé is worth way more than a hundred lire.
Venue name: Centolire
Contact:
Address: 1167 Madison Ave
New York
10028-04
Cross street: between 85th and 86th Sts
Opening hours: Daily noon–3pm, 5:30–10pm
Transport: Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St
Price: Average main course: $25. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V
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