Moderne? Not quite. This carpeted, casual counterpoint to chef Daniel Boulud’s blockbuster Daniel is showing its age (it opened in 2001). Even DB’s comically decadent burger—comprising ground sirloin stuffed with red-wine-braised short ribs, foie gras and black truffle shavings—feels a bit dated in a culinary landscape that includes places like Stand and BLT Burger. Still, it’s a worthy spectacle and, like most of the sprawling menu (it veers from gnocchi to coq au vin), rather delicious. The pre-theater–friendly eatery may be an old dog with old tricks—but it still merits a pat on the head.
DB Bistro Moderne
|Venue name:||DB Bistro Moderne|
55 W 44th St
|Cross street:||between Fifth and Sixth Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon 7–10am, noon–2:30pm, 5–10pm; Tue–Thu 7–10am, noon–2:30pm, 5–11pm; Fri 7–10am, noon–2:30pm, 5–11:30pm; Sat 8–11am, noon–2:30pm, 5–11:30pm; Sun 8–11am, 5–10pm|
|Transport:||Subway: B, D, F, M to 42nd St–Bryant Park; 7 to Fifth Ave|
|Price:||Average main course: $30|