In a nod to old-school chef fealty, East 12th Osteria makes every pasta, gnocchi, bread, sorbet and gelato in-house. Given the 45-seat capacity, this is both a noble and distinctly ambitious undertaking.
Though the service never lacks for attentiveness, the restaurant’s cooked-to-order approach is unapologetically slow—but a glass of Piedmont wine and several strips of carta musica—the addictive olive oil and salt crisp from the breadbasket—will satisfy any impatience.
Before opening this spot in 2013, Roberto Deiaco was executive chef at Armani/Ristorante 5th Avenue, and several facsimiles of his old menu reappear here—the most recognizable is the Ravioli all’ Uovo di Quaglia ($23), which displays a delicately technical touch when a glug of golden quail yoke exudes from the pasta’s pierced center. And Deiaco’s love for Northern Italian luxuriance is obvious: Truffles, cheeses, eggy pastas and succulent meats abound.
The Capessante Scottate ($19), a seared sea scallop topped with shaved black Norcia truffles, proves even seafood isn’t exempt from the decadence. One small criticism of the otherwise technically well-executed menu is the lack of counterbalance to its richness—a sprinkling of fresh herbs or touch of flaked salt would add welcome levity.
Dessert, though simple, shouldn’t be overlooked. House-made sorbets ($8), in flavors like pear and raspberry, are sublime, and the tiramisù ($9), albeit a touch overeager with the cocoa powder, is topped with truffle fior di latte gelato—and it’s transformative.
BY: TIME OUT COMMUNITY REVIEWER MICHAEL PEARSON