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Made-to-order guacamole has become a staple of upscale places, but at El Parador, the molcajete (lava-rock bowl) it’s made in is almost 50 years old. The dining room’s multigenerational party atmosphere is another sure sign of the restaurant’s longevity. Even with a reservation, you may have to wait at the bar, which is fine—the warm chips and cinnamon-spiked salsa go well with margaritas. El Parador is known for two classic main courses. Mole poblano is quintessential comfort food, ample for two. Ropa vieja is more than what its name (“old clothes”) suggests; the shredded beef is flavorful and chewy. Coconut-coated fried ice cream also has multigenerational appeal.
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