Fedora

Restaurants , American West Village
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(4 user reviews)
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Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nelson, Photograph: Caroline Voagen Nels
Fedora

Young restaurateur Gabriel Stulman is an A-list impresario in the making, with a trio of hot eateries---including Joseph Leonard and Jeffrey's Grocery---clustered within a three-block West Village radius. His new spot, Fedora, is the most chef-focused of the bunch, matching Stulman's trademark hospitality with destination-worthy cuisine. The affable host is still at the door, converting newcomers to regulars with a smile and a handshake---but the food, for the first time, does most of the work.

Stepping out of his comfort-food comfort zone, Stulman has recruited his first daredevil chef. The young Canadian Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly--- a veteran of Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal---serves Quebecois party food for epicurean hipsters that's giddy, excessive and fun.

Brunet-Benkritly makes his New York debut in a historic venue that last summer still catered to octogenarian barflies, an unlikely beachhead for French-Canadian gluttony. The 60-year-old West Village landmark, lovingly refurbished by Stulman and team, retains its clubhouse feel. But the cocktails these days are mixed with house-made bitters and served alongside some of the city's most exciting toe-to-tongue cooking.

The food is eccentric, yes, but not so extreme you couldn't, or wouldn't, want to eat here twice a week. While the chef's crispy octopus with brown-buttered sweetbreads is an inspired and challenging take on surf and turf, there are also plenty of accessible treats. Replacing the usual bar burger is a killer steak sandwich, with horseradish aioli and shoestring fries stuffed into the bun. Salt-cod fritters are light as beignets, and a big dinner salad is a riotous number with rock shrimp, avocado, shaved fennel and Manchego. Then there's a very fine steak tartare, an offbeat and elegant spin---a little bit Asian, a little bit French---that combines a hand-cut fillet with sriracha mayo, flying-fish roe, crisped rice and shallots.

Brunet-Benkritly clearly has a soft spot for big, blustery flavors, and a real macabre sense of humor. His fried chicken, served like a salaryman lunch over sushi rice and bitter greens, arrives at the table with a sharp claw still attached, the bird's confited leg and thigh covered in crisped rice and bread crumbs---a coating so flavorsome, you might be inclined to nibble those toes. There's a feasting quality to so much of the food here---my table tore gamely into a deliciously sweet, sticky duck leg with dates and cilantro. Still, the giant pork chop for two---a double-thick monster split lengthwise with crisp pickled veggies, nutmeg-spiced meatballs and cabbage, and crumbly green-onion pancakes for wrapping it all up---makes everything else seem almost quaint. (See Feasts!)

The toque has got bravado to burn. Even without a pastry chef he fares well, serving buttery madeleines and a fine apple tart. But dessert at Fedora needn't be the end of the meal. If it's your third or fourth visit, Stulman might know you by name---the man loves his regulars. Pull up a stool at the bar: Who knows, that last one for the road might even be on the house.

Vitals

Eat this: Octopus with sweetbreads, steak tartare, steak sandwich, fried chicken, pork chop for two

Drink this: The cocktails (all $12), featuring house-made bitters, syrups and infused spirits, have a nostalgic bent that fits the storied venue they're served in. The Black Squirrel old-fashioned is a classic potent drink polished up with pecan bitters. Serious cocktailians can finish off the night with a Shackleton, an intense digestif made with Fernet Branca and bourbon.

Sit here: Bar-top dining best fits the spirit of the place, but the big corner tables are much better suited to a full-fledged feast.

Conversation piece: Au Pied de Cochon, the chef's alma mater, may be North America's most famously gluttonous restaurant, best known for adding foie gras to everything. For more food in that vein, check out M. Wells in Queens, where another alumnus is now serving dinner.

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Venue name: Fedora
Contact:
Address: 239 W 4th St
New York
10014
Cross street: between Charles and W 10th Sts
Opening hours: Daily 5pm–2am
Transport: Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, M to W 4th St; 1 to Christopher St–Sheridan Sq
Price: Average main course: $20. AmEx, MC, V
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Average User Rating

4.7 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:2
  • 4 star:1
  • 3 star:0
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|4
NaN people listening
AARON D

I love Fedora, it is a west village institution and in my opinion it is the best restaurant in the HCH group!My choice would be to sit at the bar with a friend, order wine or cocktails and order oysters and then work our way through some of the smaller dishes or mains.The pork chop is to die for but honestly I don’t think you can go far wrong with this place.As of Jan 4th they’ve eliminated tipping too!!

 

tmjh86

Definitely my go-to date night spot whenever I'm in the West Village. Although this basement bar is always busy, it's busy simply because it's the kind of place that once you settle into, you'll never want to leave. The service is always top-notch - from helping you secure a table, to recommending the best wine to suit your tastes - the bartenders know how to make a killer negroni, the bar snacks are a perfect companion for their drinks menu, and the bar itself is comfortable, and not pretentious in anyway. Get in early, and stay all night!  

allysonm
tastemaker

A go-to spot in the West Village for either an intimate date, or a night out with girlfriends. The cocktail program is impressive, and the service is also friendly and informed. The low lighting keeps the vibe relatively chill during happy hour, although it does get quite crowded at night and on weekends.

Alex E

I had one of my most magical meals in New York here while sitting at their bar (easier to get than a table). The wine - and the bartenders' recommendations for wine - was surprising and delicious. And they have this very special, very simple mushroom dish with a poached egg that is one of the most perfect things I've ever eaten. I craved it for months after the first time I tried it. The dark, cozy vibe ties it altogether. The place is pricey, but more than worth it for a very special meal.