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Critics' pick
Photograph: Virginia Rollison
Clam Pie at Franny's
Prospect Heights
The sweet smell of smoke greets diners—and sticks to their hair and clothes—at this insta-classic. Thin, bubbly, locavore pizzas are the soul of this operation, helmed by husband-and-wife team Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg (Savoy). A sausage-and-cheese pie isn’t just a cravings-sater—it’s a work of art. The chewy, charred pizza, with coins of funky house-cured meat, buffalo mozzarella and fragrant Parmesan cheeses, a sauce that’s so sweet it reminds you that tomatoes are fruit, plus a drizzle of olive oil, is among the city’s best. Between the other excellent pies—like the clam-dotted version with chili and parsley—and multiple appetizers (if it’s on the often-changing menu, order the house-cured cod with crisp radishes), it’s tough to choose. Note: The place is popular, and they don’t take reservations.
Venue name: Franny’s
Address: 348 Flatbush Ave
Cross street: between Eighth Ave and Sterling Pl
Opening hours: Mon–Thu noon–11pm, Fri noon–11:30pm, Sat noon–11:30pm, Sun noon–10pm
Transport: Subway: B, Q to Seventh Ave; 2, 3 to Bergen St
Price: Average main course: $12. AmEx, MC, V
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