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Fung Tu

1/6
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Duck-stuffed dates at Fung Tu

2/6
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Celtuce egg at Fung Tu

3/6
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Steamed buns at Fung Tu

4/6
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Sweet-potato rice cakes at Fung Tu

5/6
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Whole steamed fish at Fung Tu

6/6
Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz

Fung Tu

Lower East Side

These days, New York’s Chinese food scene is in full-blown revival mode, fueled by red-hot joints like RedFarm and Mission Chinese Food, edging out dated fixations on cheap and “authentic” with promises of locavore and cool.

The latest restaurant to take a 21st-century crack at Chinese is Fung Tu, from Nom Wah Tea Parlor scion Wilson Tang and Per Se vet Jonathan Wu. In their slender, wood-rich room, cultural references are subtler than the typical red-lantern kitsch; spindly Pyrex light fixtures—made by Wu’s artist wife—were inspired by Chinese lattice patterns. They cast a gentle glow on tight-sweatered scenesters and beach-wood booths as stiff as church pews.

Rather than intensifying flavors, Wu’s cerebral plates subdue them. Ribbons of celtuce ($13) are vexingly tasteless, even slicked with buttery popcorn puree and the salty ooze of a soft-boiled, soy-soaked egg. A beige slab of broad-bean curd terrine ($13) is doused with chili oil, but conjures up little more than solid, grainy hummus.

More disappointing than these creative offerings are reinterpreted classics sapped of their trademark allure. Buttery steamed buns ($12) cocoon a mushy, salt-starved mix of vegetables and glass noodles; a bowl of gummy, spaetzle-esque knots of dough topped with heat-deficient chili-pork sauce ($19) are meant to reference mapo tofu, but recall overcooked Hamburger Helper.

Wu’s best dishes summon more assertive flavors. Steamed whole sea bream ($28) is salt-licked by pungent fermented black beans, its silky flesh teetering between briny and sweet. Springy sweet-potato rice cakes ($23) are pure comfort, their meaty chew bolstered by mushrooms, Chinese sausage and crinkly kale.

Those rice cakes give you what you’ve been missing all along, the earthy, wok-fired jolt that makes much of Chinese cooking so seductive. In pursuit of toned-down flavors, Fung Tu too often renders its cooking mute.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Meal highlights: Duck-stuffed dates, sweet-potato rice cakes, whole steamed fish

Behind the bar: Wines are inspired by the nutty, fruity flavors of Asian rice wine; as promised by Chicago sommelier Jason Wagner, a watermelon-accented pineau d’anuis mollifies any chili heat.

Vibe: If you’re craving family-style dishes whirling on a lazy Susan, walk west to Chinatown; these delicate small plates were conceived for contemplation, not throwdown feasts.

Cocktail chatter: The oxblood-colored wallpaper panels depict toon leaves, a garlicky spring delicacy that Wu’s grandpa grows in his yard in Yonkers.

Soundcheck: There may be steamed buns on every table, but this is a far cry from the fever pitch of weekend dim sum.

By Daniel S. Meyer

Venue name: Fung Tu
Contact:
Address: 22 Orchard St
New York
10002
Cross street: between Canal and Hester Sts
Opening hours: Tue–Sat 6pm–midnight; Sun 6–10pm
Transport: Subway: F to East Broadway
Price: Average entrée: $18. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
LiveReviews|1
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Andrew Tam

Came in here for dinner with my family because I saw all the good reviews and wanted to check it out. EXTREMELY DISAPPOINTED. THE DECOR-SHABBY, CHURCH LIKE BENCHES FOR SEATING. LIKE A CHURCH DONATION. NOT VERY COMFORTABLE TO SIT ON HARD BENCHES. THE WALLPAPER AND LIGHTING WAS VERY NICE. FOOD- BLAND, TASTELESS, BLAND. I WANTED TO QUESTION THE SOMMELIER OR THE CHEFS IF THIS WAS REALLY CHINESE FOOD? IT DIDN'T TASTE CHINESE. SERVICE-TOOK FOREVER TO GET A WAITER'S ATTENTION. TOOK FOREVER TO GET OUR FOOD. TOOK ALMOST 20 YEARS TO GET OUR CHECK. GET IT TOGETHER. I CAN EAT AT BETTER PLACES SUCH AS MR. CHOWS, MR. KS, CAFE CHINA, ETC.