Named for the two-faced Roman god Janus, Giano toys with yin-yang dichotomies to disappointing results. The high-concept exists everywhere from the decor— a rustic exposed-brick wall faces a pixelated sunflower print—to the menu. “Contemporary” dishes (a chickpea croquette cloaked in too-rich Gorgonzola cream, for example) are pitted against classic ones, like just-passable gnocchi in an intense four-cheese sauce. Genial service and decent desserts (an above-average tiramisu) help make Giano just what the neighborhood didn’t need—another middling trattoria.
126 E 7th St
|Cross street:||between First Ave and Ave A|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Thu, Sun 5:30–11pm Fri, Sat 5:30–1am|
|Transport:||Subway: F, V to Lower East Side–Second Ave; L to First Ave; 6 to Astor Pl|
|Price:||Average main course: $20. AmEx|