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Adding fuel to the wood-burning food blaze, Nick Mautone (Gramercy Tavern) has built this 70-seat spot around the ashes of Donatella's gold-painted hearth. James Beard Award winner Bradford Thompson (Miss Lily's) turns out ember-roasted plates like whole baby lamb and pork shoulder in the mason-jar-lit dining room. Some dishes nod to Mautone's bartending history: A skirt steak comes in a Manhattan marinade, and a tomatillo Bloody Mary (one of five at the white-marble bar) flavors oven-roasted shrimp. Former Daniel boulanger Mark Fiorentino runs the in-house bread program, stretching pizza dough for pies topped with Long Island duck, creamed kale and wild mushrooms.