Jade Asian

  • Restaurants
  • Breakfast
Critics' pick
Photograph: Todd Coleman

Steamed pork buns at Jade Asian

Photograph: Todd Coleman
Shumai at Jade Asian
Photograph: Todd Coleman
Hot peppers stuffed with shrimp at Jade Asian
Just as grunge unassumingly usurped hair metal, Jade Asian has been quietly setting itself apart from the Flushing competition since 2008, bypassing a gilded-banquet-hall crescendo for modern understatement. Case in point: Light-blocking red velvet curtains are forgone for floor-to-ceiling windows. The food follows along these lines, with clean, well-crafted updates on the classics from chef-owner Peter How. Turnip cakes (jiang chao luo bo gao) are chopped into cubes and stir-fried with chilies, scallions and bacon, turning a typically bland side dish into a spicy, crispy update on home fries. Seafood-stuffed hot peppers (jian niang qing jiao) have a lighter filling that allows the lip-singeing chili heat to really zing. The barbecued-pork buns (char siu bao) are meatier than most, skipping a showy, overly saccharine sauce in favor of hearty chunks of grilled meat and an impressively fluffy bao.
Venue name: Jade Asian
Address: 136-28 39th Ave
Cross street: at 138th St
Opening hours: Mon–Fri 10am–10pm; Sat, Sun 10am–11pm
Transport: Subway: 7 to Flushing–Main St
Price: Average dim sum: $4. AmEx, MC, V
1 person listening