Kabul Kebab House

The hybrid menu at this bright, casual place hawks “Afghan and Persian food” on the front and “Middle Eastern” on the back. (The brisk take-out trade is for the namesake dish.) Dinner can run the geographical gamut: first-rate hummus; tomato-sweetened stews; crisp, delicate sambosas; and qabeli palaw, succulent charcoal-grilled meat over spiced, raisin-studded rice. The perfumey rose-water ice cream may be an acquired taste.